Paris has a gift for building grand monuments. From Napoleon's imposing Arc de Triomphe to Eiffel's pioneering tower, and even to the whimsical and absurd Beaubourg museum, every notable landmark seems to have monumental proportions. But Paris has delights of a smaller, quieter nature: Manicured parks and flower gardens give a green backdrop and a serene beauty to the broad avenues, soaring cathedrals and marble monuments.
The main attraction on Ile de la Cite is the Cathedral of Notre Dame. No one should miss this Gothic masterpiece.
On the Left Bank, the neighborhood around the famed Sorbonne University is known as the Latin Quarter. The Quarter has always had an intellectual, international, bohemian character, though its winding streets have become home to more than a few fast-food restaurants and video arcades in the past decade or two. Also on the Left Bank is the gilt-domed Hotel des Invalides, which is a military museum holding Napoleon's tomb, and to the west is Paris' most famous landmark, the Eiffel Tower, built as a "temporary" exhibit in 1889 to commemorate the centennial of the French Revolution.
On the Right Bank, the Georges Pompidou Center (also known as Beaubourg) is one of the world's most novel structures. The "insides" of the building are on the outside: White, blue, green, yellow and red conduits, which serve the ventilation, air-conditioning, fire-prevention, electrical and transportation systems, are visible from the street.
In the very center of Paris is the Louvre, once the residence of Louis XIV and now the home of Venus de Milo and Mona Lisa. A massive museum housing more than 350,000 works of art from ancient times through the 18th century, the Louvre is impossible to digest at one go.
Place de la Concorde, the site of beheadings during the Revolution and tank duels during World War II, is at the opposite end of the Tuileries Gardens from the Louvre. Connecting the Place de la Concorde to the Arc de Triomphe (commemorating the victories of the Revolution and of Napoleon) is the magnificent Boulevard des Champs Elysees (lined with shops, showrooms, sidewalk cafes and cinemas).
Arc de Triomphe—Take a trip to the top of this magnificent example of Napoleonic self-celebration. At 162 ft/49 m high, it is also the world's second-tallest triumphal arch (North Korea built one just a smidgen bigger). Twelve avenues radiate from the Arc; underneath it lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. 1 April-30 September daily 9:30 am-11 pm, 1 October-31 March daily 10 am-10:30 pm. Metro Etoile. Phone 01-5537-7377. Fax 01-4380-6412.
Catacombs—At the end of the 1700s, millions of bones were transferred to these underground quarries because their previous resting place, the Cimetiere des Innocents, near Beaubourg, became overcrowded. The Catacombs also served as French Resistance headquarters during World War II, and their secret use was never discovered by the Nazis. Bring your own flashlight. Tuesday-Friday 2-4 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9-11 am and 2-4 pm. 1 Place Denfert-Rochereau (14th). Phone 01-4322-4763.
Conciergerie—During the Reign of Terror, unfortunates made a stop at this prison before being guillotined. Within the 14th-century work of civil architecture, you can see the cells of Robespierre, Danton and Marie Antoinette. May-August daily 9:30 am-6:30 pm, September-April daily 10 am-5 pm. 1 Quai de l'Horloge (1st). Phone 01-5373-7850.
Eiffel Tower—Built at the end of the 19th century, this 7,000-ton marvel of metal latticework was almost disassembled in 1909. It disgusted many prominent Parisians, who wanted to preserve the city's aesthetics, but then its radio-tower capabilities were discovered. The interior lighting system makes it look like a big golden candle at night. 1 September-9 June daily 9:30 am-11 pm; 10 June-31 August daily 9 am-midnight. Closed 8 May. Champs de Mars (7th). Phone 01-4411-2323. Fax 01-4411-2322. http://www.tour-eiffel.fr.
Hotel des Invalides—Louis XIV ordered the first national hospital for soldiers to be built. The resulting structure, with its gilded dome, is a masterpiece of 17th-century classical French religious architecture. But the main attraction is Napoleon's Tomb: This enormous crypt contains six coffins placed one inside the other, nesting-doll style, with the emperor inviolable in the center coffin. The complex is also a military museum, containing flags and banners, swords, medals, armor and other items from French military history, including some of Napoleon's personal possessions. A new museum on Charles de Gaulle and the Second World War has opened within the Invalides complex and is worth a look. October-March daily 10 am-5 pm, April-September til 6 pm. Place des Invalides (7th). Phone 01-4442-3770. http://www.invalides.org.
Notre Dame—The great, Gothic, 12th-century cathedral stands majestically on the Ile de la Cite. Among its most noted features are its towers and flying buttresses. It has gargoyles on the outside to keep evil out and rain in its proper place, but the inside sparkles with stained glass, especially the 30-ft/9-m Rose Window. The bell in the south tower is heard only on the most solemn occasions. You may also admire the 7,800 pipes of the recently renovated 11th-century organ. Excavations around Notre Dame in preparation for a parking garage revealed what is now known as the Crypt—3rd century, Gallo-Roman, late Roman and medieval ruins and the largest archaeological crypt in Europe. The cathedral is open daily 8 am-6:45 pm. Closed to tours during Sunday masses (10 am, 11:30 am, 12:30 pm). Free. The crypt is open Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm. The tower is open daily 10 am-5 pm. Ile de la Cite (4th). For cathedral information, phone 01-4432-1670; for crypt information, phone 01-4329-8351, fax 01-4651-7098.
Palais Garnier—Considered the masterpiece of the Second Empire, it has recently been restored to its ornate marble grandeur. If you want to see the famous Chagall ceiling mural, be sure to go between 1-2 pm because no visitors are allowed during opera rehearsals. Daily 10 am-4:30 pm. Guided tours take place at 1 pm daily except Tuesdays; call to reserve. Place de l'Opera (9th). Phone 01-4001-2123.
Pantheon—This enormous neoclassical structure began as Louis XV's Temple to Ste. Genevieve and later became a secular mausoleum. Voltaire, Rousseau, Hugo, Zola, Marie and Pierre Curie, Resistance leader Jean Moulin and Andre Malraux are all buried within. April-September daily 9:30 am-6:30 pm, October-March daily 10 am-6:15 pm. Place du Pantheon (5th). Phone 01-4432-1800.
Sacre Coeur—This 19th-century neoclassical basilica sits atop Butte Montmartre, the highest hill in Paris. The central white marble dome is surrounded by smaller white domes (making it look like a wedding cake) and is visible from all over the city. Climb up into the dome for a fabulous view of Paris. Daily 6:45 am-10:30 pm. Crypt open daily 9 am-6 pm. 37 Rue Chevalier de la Barre (18th). Phone 01-5341-8900.
Thermes de Cluny/Musee National du Moyen Age—The abbots of Cluny lived in this 15th-century Gothic mansion, which now houses a magnificent collection of tapestries (notably Lady With the Unicorn). While there, see the ruins of the Cluny thermal baths (dating to AD 200) and Paris' oldest sculpture, Boatman's Pillar, made between AD 17 and AD 37. Contemporary gardens inspired by the medieval collections now encircle the museum. Wednesday-Monday 9:15 am-5:45 pm. 6 Place Paul Painleve (5th). Phone 01-5373-7800.
Cemeteries
Montmartre Cemetery—Walled and shaded by trees, this cemetery off Rue Caulaincourt is famous for its hillside gathering of graves of composers, artists and authors, including Degas, Offenbach, Stendhal, Dumas, Nijinsky and Truffaut. Monday-Friday 8 am-5:30 pm. Free. 20 Ave. Rachel (18th).
Pere Lachaise Cemetery—Named after Louis XIV's confessor, Father Lachaise, this is the largest cemetery in Paris (108 acres/44 hectares) and a favorite spot for Parisians and tourists alike. Shops on the streets leading to the entrances sell maps of the cemetery, which will help you locate the graves of Moliere, Balzac, Proust, Edith Piaf, Chopin, Oscar Wilde, Isadora Duncan and Jim Morrison. Safe during daylight hours. 6 November-16 March 8 am-5:30 pm (from 9 am on Sunday), 17 March-5 November 8 am-6 pm (from 8:30 am on Saturday and 9 am on Sunday). Free. Boulevard Menilmontant at Avenue Gambetta (20th Metro Pere Lachaise).
Sainte-Chapelle—Hidden away in a courtyard of the Palais de Justice on the Isle de la Cite, this medieval church, constructed by St. Louis (Louis IX) in 1248, stands like a jewel with its stunning stained-glass windows in the upper gallery. April-September daily 9:30 am-6:30 pm, October-March 10 am-5 pm. 2 Blvd. Du Palais (between Quai des Orfevres and de l'Horloge, 4th). Phone 01-5373-7851.
Parks and Gardens
Nothing seems more relaxing in nice weather than strolling along the beautiful park or garden:
Jardin d'Acclimatation—A 25-acre/10-hectare park in the Bois de Boulogne, complete with Enchanted River boat rides, a miniature farm, mazes, puppet shows and a doll museum. The playground has been updated to make it one of the best in the city. Daily 10 am-7 pm. Free for children age 2 or younger. Metro Sablons or Route de Mahatma Gandhi, Bois de Boulogne (16th). Phone 01-4067-9082.
Jardin des Plantes—The Botanical Garden began as a single medicinal herb garden in the 1600s and blossomed into a thriving 74-acre/30-hectare quilt of gardens, including a play area for children, an Alpine garden and greenhouses brimming with exotic plants. The garden is open daily sunrise to sunset. Free. Greenhouses open Wednesday-Monday 10 am-5 pm. 57 Rue Cuvier (5th). Phone 01-4079-3000.
Jardin des Tuileries—Flanked by the Louvre, the Seine, Place de la Concorde and the Rue de Rivoli, the Tuileries are a perfect place to rest between seeing various sights. An excellent example of French formal gardens—symmetrical and manicured, with terraces and pools—they were designed by Le Notre for Louis XIV in the mid 1700s. Two wonderful small museums, the Jeu de Paume and the Orangerie, stand opposite each other on the Concorde side of the gardens. Metro Tuileries.
Jardin du Luxembourg—This broad expanse covered with centuries-old trees, winding paths, statues, lawns and reflecting pools is a wonderful place to get a feel for the locals. Great for people watching, you'll see more Parisians than tourists. For the kids, there are go-carts, pony rides, wooden merry-go-rounds, toy sailboats and a jungle gym. Open dawn to dusk. Metro St. Michel (6th).
Parc de Bagatelle—Wonderful rose garden, in the Bois de Boulogne. Roses bloom March-October. Daily 8:30 am-7:30 pm, 9 am-4 pm in winter. Metro Sablons or Porte Maillot plus Bus 244. Phone 01-4501-2050 or 01-4077-9700.
Parc des Buttes Chaumont—Lacking the formality of many Paris parks, the Buttes Chaumont is verdant, rambling and hilly. There is a lake within the park, and an island in the middle of the lake is accessible by boat or suspension bridge. A belvedere perched on the island affords a view of the basilica Sacre Coeur and the rest of Paris. Children will enjoy the rough-and-tumble landscape, the merry-go-rounds, swings, rocking horses and puppet shows. In a residential neighborhood. Puppet shows daily at 4:30 pm at the Guignol Anatole Theater, located at the park entrance opposite the city hall. Avenue J. de Liniers (19th). Phone 01-4398-1095.
Place des Vosges—One of the prettiest squares in Paris, it's filled with sandboxes, slides and swings for children and lined on all sides with arcades (roofed promenades), where amorous couples stroll arm in arm. In the heart of the Marais. Metro St. Paul or Bastille.
