Paris draws lovers of perfume, wine, chocolate, haute couture, fine jewelry and antiques. Keep an eye out for: art, Limoges porcelain, Lalique crystal, enamel, designer clothing, gloves, mustard, scarves, handblown glass, cheese, tapestries, cognac and champagne.
From the sophisticated St. Honore area to the funky-trendy Marais, Paris has a shopping district to suit everyone's taste. In an era of malls, this city still offers thousands of intimate specialty shops, as well as large department stores. A wonderful area to buy antiques is bounded by four small streets—Bonaparte, Saints Peres, Bac and Jacob—in the 6th arrondissement on the Left Bank. It's overflowing with stores selling Empire-period treasures. You will find respected art galleries along the Rue du Faubourg St. Honore, as well as in the Marais and in St. Germain des Pres (particularly along Rue de Seine). The best department stores are Galeries Lafayette, Au Printemps, La Samaritaine (more character than most) and Colette (chic and daring).
If at all possible, plan to spend at least half a day at Paris' famed markets. The Marche aux Puces (Market of Fleas) has more than 3,000 sidewalk stands and permanent stalls where, each weekend, tens of thousands of Parisians browse and buy. Another favorite Paris flea market is Vanves (Metro: Porte de Vanves), held on Saturdays and Sundays. More fascinating markets: the outdoor food markets held each week in every arrondissement, the flower markets on Ile de la Cite (among others) and the stalls of old books, prints and maps along both banks of the Seine. (Look especially on the Quai du Louvre and the Quai de la Megisserie on the Right Bank, and the Quai des Grands Augustins and Quai Malaquais on the Left Bank.)
Keep in mind that the big sales come after Christmas and again before the fall collections and that many smaller shops close during most of August. And note that the formality of French living extends to shopping customs. Don't be surprised if you get a dirty look from a sales clerk if you enter a store and begin handling everything. If you ask for assistance, however, you will most surely receive a smile and the clerk's undivided attention.
Shopping hours
Generally, Monday-Saturday 10 am-6:30 pm. Food stores may open earlier. Most stores close on Sunday, and some on Monday. Many smaller shops stay open until 7 or 8 pm. Butcher shops, fish markets, fruit and vegetable stands and the like often close from 1-4 pm and then stay open until 7 or 8 pm, many closing Sunday afternoons and Monday altogether. Small grocer shops stay open to 11 pm.
Antique stores
Drouot—Serious antique buyers should stop in for an auction at this French equivalent of Sotheby's. Items to be auctioned may be viewed 11 am-6 pm the day before and 11 am-noon on the day of an auction. Call for an auction schedule. 9 Rue Drouot (9th). Phone 01-4800-2020.
Le Louvre des Antiquaires—A pricey emporium across from the Louvre. 250 shops selling art-deco objects, furniture, prints, woodcuts, dolls, clothing and African, Japanese and Thai antiques. Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-7 pm (closed Sunday and Monday in July and August). 2 Place du Palais Royal (1st). Phone 01-4297-2700.
Bookstores
Shakespeare and Co.—Named after Sylvia Beach's bookstore (the first publisher of James Joyce's Ulysses), this English-language bookstore is a Paris landmark. It's had the same proprietor for 40 years. Daily noon-midnight. 37 Rue de la Bucherie (5th). Phone 01-4326-9650.
Village Voice—This very Left Bank bookstore is a veritable institution, a mecca for readers of Anglo-American literature. It's run by the gracious and erudite Odile Hellier and carries an excellent selection of contemporary and classic English-language literature as well as a wide range of literary reviews. Check for readings by journalists, novelists and poets. Monday 2-8 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday 2-7 pm. 6 Rue Princesse (6th). Phone 01-4633-3647.
Department stores
Au Printemps—Free fashion shows Tuesday 10 am (all year) and Friday 10 am (April-October only). Reservations required. Store open Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-7 pm, Thursday till 10 pm. 64 Blvd. Haussmann (9th). Phone 01-4282-5000.
Colette—One of the most chic and daring of the clothing and home-furnishing designers. This store is an exciting place to shop on the otherwise reserved Rue St. Honore. The tea salon downstairs serves light fare, as well as 35 brands of bottled water. Monday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm. 213 Rue St. Honore (1st). Phone 01-5535-3390.
Galeries Lafayette—Worth a stop if only to see the gorgeous interior, with its art-nouveau details and stunning stained-glass dome. Free fashion shows every Wednesday throughout the year at 11 am and Friday (April-October only) at 2:30 pm. Reservations required. Store open Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-7 pm, Thursday till 9 pm. 40 Blvd. Haussmann (9th). Phone 01-4282-3456.
La Samaritaine—More character than Galeries Lafayette and Au Printemps. Also has a rooftop cafe with a panoramic view of the Seine and Left Bank. The store is huge—you can find anything from mascara to tents, compact discs to bicycles. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-7 pm, Thursday till 10 pm. 19 Rue de la Monnaie (1st). Phone 01-4041-2020.
Le Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville (BHV)—This department store has a complete array of clothing and household fixtures and housewares, linens, kitchen supplies, books and toys. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-7 pm, Wednesday until 10 pm. 52 Rue de Rivole. Metro Hotel de Ville. Phone 01-4274-9000.
Le Bon Marche—The Left Bank's answer to the big Right Bank department stores. It is often less crowded, and there's a pleasant park in front where you can rest after shopping (or munch on some of its fresh-baked bread or other goodies). Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-7 pm. 38 Rue de Sevres (7th). Phone 01-4439-8000.
Galleries
Galerie Alain Blondel—Features early-20th-century art, trompe l'oeil and realism. Tuesday-Friday 11 am-1 pm and 2-7 pm, Saturday 2-7 pm. In the Marais, 4 Rue Aubry le Boucher (4th). Phone 01-4278-6667.
Galerie Claude Bernard—One of the best selections of modern art in the city. Tuesday-Saturday 9:30 am-12:30 pm and 2:30-6:30 pm. St. Germain area, 7-9 Rue des Beaux Arts (6th). Phone 01-4326-9707.
Galerie Zabriskie—Exhibits photography. Tuesday-Saturday 2-6 pm. Closed in August. In the Marais, 37 Rue Quincampoix (4th). Phone 01-4272-3547.
Malls and shopping areas
Avenue Montaigne—Haute couture of Christian Dior, Ungaro, Nina Ricci. In the 8th arrondissement.
The Marais—The hot spot for seekers of chic. Trendy and pricey boutiques have replaced most—but not all—kosher butchers and bakeries. You'll find handmade wedding dresses, retro U.S.-style diners with Naugahyde booths, tapas bars, vintage and ultramodern clothing, jewelry, antique silver and glassware, English antiques and art galleries. Many shops are open Sundays. Stroll down the Rue des Francs-Bourgeois (3rd and 4th) and all the tiny medieval streets leading off of it.
Place Vendome—For the finest names in jewelry (Cartier, Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels), try the Place Vendome, in the 1st arrondissement.
Rue du Faubourg St. Honore—A must for haute couture clothing (Lanvin, Louis Ferraud, Hermes). In the 8th arrondissement.
Rue Royale—Fine jewelry. In the 8th arrondissement.
Markets
Flower Markets—For flowers, check out the Rue de la Cite on Ile de la Cite, or stroll down the tiny, sweet-smelling Rue de Buci (6th). For animals, flowers, bulbs and seeds, work your way down the Quai de la Megisserie (1st). Both are open Monday-Saturday.
Marche aux Puces (Market of Fleas)—We've seen everything from a used staircase and old dental instruments to fine Louis XIV furniture and brand-new leather jackets and jeans at Paris' famous flea market. It's a fantastic mix of the shaky and the sturdy, the tattered and the polished, the underappreciated and the overpriced (be prepared to bargain!). Saturday-Monday 7:30 am-7 pm. The flea market stretches 4 mi/6 km, from Porte de Clignancourt (18th) to Porte de St. Ouen (17th). Take the Metro to Porte de Clignancourt or Porte de St. Ouen.
Stamp Market—Sells stamps and postcards every Thursday, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-7 pm. On the Avenues Marigny and Gabriel (8th).
Specialty stores
Carette—Taste the definitive macaroon. Wednesday-Monday 8 am-10 pm. 4 Place du Trocadero (16th). Phone 01-4727-9885.
Christian Tortu—Discover flowers like you've never seen (fresh and dried) from one of Paris' best-known floral designers. Monday-Saturday 9 am-8 pm, Sunday 11 am-7 pm. 6 Carrefour de l'Odeon (6th). Phone 01-4326-0256.
Fauchon—This famed food purveyor on the toney Place de la Madeleine is expensive, but filled with exotic offerings like Tonganese mangoes, Scottish salmon and pastries so impeccably displayed that a view through the window is often enough. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-7 pm. 26 Place de la Madeleine (8th). Phone 01-4742-6011.
Reciproque—Secondhand takes on a whole new meaning when the label says Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent or Christian Lacroix. Reciproque, located in the posh 16th, is actually a cluster of seven shops that buy and sell men's and women's couture, jewelry and accessories. Regulars include catwalk models, actresses and ordinary folks. Some garments have only been worn a few times. As with any secondhand store, it's the luck of the draw. Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-7:30 pm. Located at 89, 92, 93, 95, 97, 101 and 123 Rue de la Pompe (16th). Phone 01-4704-3028 or 01-4727-9352.
Unique or unusual
La Boite a Musique—You'll find 19th-century music boxes there. Monday 2-7 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 11 am-7 pm. 96 Rue du Bac (6th). Phone 01-4222-0130.
Madeleine Gely—For umbrellas, try this shop—it's been in business for more than 100 years. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm. 218 Blvd. St. Germain (6th). Phone 01-4222-6335.
