Night owls are in their element in Paris—not only because the city is expertly and beautifully illuminated, and safe, but because the city offers so much after-hours entertainment. For better or worse, Paris clings to its tradition of cancan girls—though their costumes are less and less frilly (in fact, there's simply less and less to them). Cabaret shows in the Moulin Rouge (immortalized by artist Toulouse-Lautrec) and Crazy Horse (striptease) are big and glitzy and may not appeal to everyone, but we enjoyed the international atmosphere and cancan dance routines just the same. Check with the concierge at your hotel for availability of tickets and current prices.
After the show, take a ride on the famed Bateaux-Mouches (glass-enclosed boats) on the Seine. You can take them during the day, but it's much more romantic at night. The boats dock at Pont de l'Alma near the Eiffel Tower.
The tangles of streets in the Marais and Bastille areas are home to the hippest clubs and bars. On the Left Bank, echoes of postwar Paris filter out of St. Germain jazz clubs, which still attract top artists. You can find Brazilian and calypso music there as well. Many places have a cover charge that includes the first drink. Most have full bars, and some serve meals. Call ahead, because prices and offerings change. Also, play it safe and never expect to pay with any credit card except Visa (except in large tourist attractions such as cabarets).
Bars, taverns and pubs
Harry's Bar—A favorite of expats and Parisians alike. Once the haunt of F. Scott Fitzgerald and Hemingway, Gloria Swanson and Noel Coward. The story goes that a barman at Harry's invented the Bloody Mary to cure Hemingway of his hangovers. Open daily mid morning to the wee hours, but tends to close early on Sunday. Piano bar daily from 10 pm. 5 Rue Daunou (2nd). Phone 01-4261-7114.
Kitty O'Shea's—Friendly and authentic Irish bar. The decor and Guinness are imported directly from Dublin. The restaurant upstairs serves excellent smoked salmon. A balanced mix of French and Anglo-Irish clientele. Daily from noon. 10 Rue des Capucines. Phone 01-4015-0808.
L'Ecluse—A chain of high-quality wine bars throughout the city. Wonderful for sampling a wide array of wines, but especially those from the Bordeaux region. Light pasta dishes and cheese plates served. Daily noon-midnight. Five locations: 15 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), phone 01-4633-5874; 4 Rue Grange aux Belles (10th), phone 01-4241-1682; 15 Place Madeleine (8th), phone 01-4265-3469; 64 Rue Francois (8th), phone 01-4720-7709; 13 Rue Roquette (11th), phone 01-4805-1912.
Le Fumoir—The relaxed atmosphere of this American/London style bar and restaurant is reminiscent of a smoking room—hence the name. Great for a late-night drink or a morning cafe au lait. Daily from mid morning. 6 Rue de l'Amiral de Coligny (4th). Phone 01-4292-0024.
Dance clubs/nightclubs
A La Java—Cool club with salsa music Thursday-Saturday and French songs on Sunday. Thursday-Saturday from 11 pm, open in the afternoon only on Sunday. Cover varies. 105 Rue du Faubourg du Temple (10th). Phone 01-4202-2052.
El Globo—A Spanish bodega on Fridays, but best known for its glittery Saturday Night Fever parties. Open midnight until dawn. Cover. 8 Blvd. de Strasbourg (10th). Phone 01-4241-5570.
L'Entr'acte—Trendy lesbian club. Techno, house and Madonna. Daily. Cover. 25 Blvd. Poissonniere (2nd). Phone 01-4026-0193.
Le Palace—Managed by Simply Red's Mick Hucknall, this club is a favorite of the fashion crowd. A large place, but with many cozy nooks for conversation. Monday-Saturday from 11:30 pm. Cover. 8 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre (9th). Phone 01-4770-7502.
Les Bains—Turkish baths from the turn of the century, revamped by Philippe Starck. A magnet for models and wannabes, the club has an ultraselective door policy. To be sure of getting in, book a table at the restaurant. Restaurant open daily for dinner; disco from 9 pm. Cover varies, but is included with prix-fixe meals. 7 Rue du Bourg l'Abbe (3rd). Phone 01-4887-0180.
Queen—The most outrageous and successful gay disco in Paris. Known for its summer "mousse" parties when the dance floor is drowned in bubble bath. Women are grudgingly admitted. Daily midnight-dawn. Cover Friday-Monday. 102 Ave. des Champs Elysees (8th). Phone 01-5389-0890.
Live music
Baiser Sale (Salty Kiss)—Jazz, Afro-fusion, R&B, Latino-jazz fusion, Asian funk. Music nightly at 9 pm, closed Wednesday. Cover. 58 Rue des Lombards (1st). Phone 01-4233-3771.
Bilboquet—High end, upbeat jazz. Dinner available (reservations suggested). Daily from 10:30 pm. Cover includes first drink. 13 Rue St. Benoit (6th). Phone 01-4548-8184.
Lionel Hampton—Jazz in a dark, luxurious atmosphere. Good prices, too. Daily from 10:30 pm. Cover includes first drink. Meridien Hotel, 81 Blvd. Gouvion St. Cyr (17th). Phone 01-4068-3042.
New Morning—Hot, crowded and smoky, this club nevertheless has traditionally booked some of the best international jazz talent of any Paris club. Hours vary with concert. Reserve tickets in advance. 7-9 Rue des Petites Ecuries (10th). Phone 01-4523-5141.
Petit Journal Montparnasse—Jazz and blues. Crowded, no-frills blues landmark. Food served, too. Tuesday-Saturday from 10 pm. Cover includes first drink. 13 Rue du Commandant Mouchotte (14th). Phone 01-4321-5670.
Additional experiences
Crazy Horse—Topless women perform a classic, extravagant cabaret show. Monday-Friday two shows nightly, Saturday three shows. 450 F-560 F, depending on seat location. Reservations requested. 12 Ave. George V (8th). Phone 01-4723-3232.
Moulin Rouge—You will see visions of Toulouse-Lautrec paintings when you step inside this cancan cabaret, which is more than 100 years old. Today the show features crocodiles and more glitter than ever. Dinner 7-9 pm. Show and half-bottle champagne 790 F-990 F. Reservations requested. 82 Blvd. de Clichy (18th). Phone 01-5309-8282.
