Wonderful food is France's gift to the world, and the French take cooking very seriously. A slice of quiche from a small bistro will taste as if it had been prepared in a fine restaurant. Everyone knows that eating—and eating well—is the raison d'etre for many Parisians. (Good chefs attain celebrity status and even become household names.) There are thousands of restaurants in Paris, from French to Vietnamese to Indian to Senegalese, so choosing a few of the best is difficult. Venture out and try as many different cuisines as possible. You will also find variety in the national cuisine: Authentic French cooking can be refined (at Lucas Carton, for example, and Les Ambassadeurs in the Hotel Crillon) or hearty (Nos Ancetres le Gaulois is a good choice).
Wherever you go, experiment with various sauces, a French specialty, and be sure to try the coffee (on the strong side), croissants, pastries, brioches, jams, cheeses (more than 250 kinds), oysters and truffles. The house wines are usually superb and surprisingly inexpensive. Whenever you tire of walking, sit down at the nearest sidewalk cafe, not only for refreshment but to observe the people passing by. Cafe Beaubourg overlooking the Centre Pompidou is especially good for people watching: It attracts lots of artists and their hangers-on. Children are always welcome in cafes (and in the smartest restaurants, too—ask for the menu d'enfant).
There are a couple of practicalities you should know about. The first is meal times. Parisians seldom eat breakfast in restaurants. Patisseries and boulangeries (bakeries) sell croissants and other breads and pastries, or you can buy coffee and a croissant in a cafe. Brunch is catching on in some U.S.-style restaurants. Lunch is generally served between noon and 2 pm (the French traditionally eat their main meal at midday). If you wait any later, you may well go hungry. Dinner is served from 7:30 pm onward. Those who like to dine early may have to go to one of the brasseries, which offer continuous service.Technically, the word brasserie means brewery, but modern brasseries are large, bright, bustling restaurants that usually stay open late (until 1 or 2 am). For those whose children need something to keep them going, try a croque-monsieur—a toasted ham and cheese sandwich.
Other practicalities: this is not a country for snacking. Even cheap cafeteria meals include three courses (not having an appetizer is considered bad for the stomach). Most restaurants (from the bottom end of the scale up to the most glitzy) will have a menu du jour (the menu of the day). Try to order from this menu if you can: The food will likely be the freshest, the most seasonal—and the best. (It will also be the cheapest way to dine.) Those on a budget might ask for a tourist menu (le menu touristique) in places frequented by travelers. The selection on the tourist menu will be reduced, but the quality won't, and the total cost will be much cheaper.
Most restaurants accept Visa; only larger establishments take American Express, MasterCard and Diners Club.
Favorite restaurants
Alain Ducasse—For an exquisite meal by a Parisian master, try this elegant setting in an art-nouveau mansion in Paris' fashionable 16th arrondissement. The pastry stuffed with truffles and sweetbreads and the tete de porc on a bed of herbs are specialties. Monday-Friday 12:30-2 pm and 7:45-10 pm. Closed mid July-mid August and Christmas week. Reservations strongly suggested. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 59 Ave. R. Poincare (16th), Paris. Phone 01-5367-6500.
Cafe Marly—Tourists and locals alike are drawn by the understated elegance of this chic cafe in the Louvre. Brasserie food is served on the terrace in full view of the glass pyramid and inside against the backdrop of a dramatic, red interior. A good spot for a classic Continental breakfast, for after the theater or anytime just for people watching. The food is simple and nouvelle. Open daily 8 am-2 am. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Palais du Louvre, Cour Napoleon, 93 Rue de Rivoli (1st), Paris. Phone 01-4926-0660.
Guy Savoy—One of the great master chefs of this generation, Savoy is distinctly contemporary and renowned for his fashionably light, haute cuisine. His menu changes every three months to play to the flavors of the season, taking advantage of the freshest ingredients. Try the langoustine soup with lentils or the duck foie gras with mussels and mushrooms. The dining room is adorned with avant-garde paintings and sculpture. Monday-Friday 12:30-2 pm and 7:30-10:30 pm, Saturday 7:30-10:30 pm. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 18 Rue Toyon (17th), Paris. Phone 01-4380-4061. Fax 01-4622-4309.
Jules Verne—The famous restaurant located on the second story of the Eiffel Tower offers excellent and imaginative French cooking as well as a splendid view of Paris. Chef Alain Reix will tempt you with lobster fricassee and foie gras with black radish preserve. An unforgettable dining experience. Daily 12:30-3 pm and 7:30-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended (sometimes months in advance). $$$$. Most major credit cards. Eiffel Tower (7th), Paris. Phone 01-4555-6144.
La Verriere d'Eric Frechon—Popular new restaurant whose menu marries adventure and tradition: duck foie gras ravioli, roast oysters, scallops braised with orange and coriander, turnip sauerkraut. Open noon-11 pm. Closed Sunday-Monday and in August. $$$. Most major credit cards. 10 Rue de General Brunet. Metro Botzaris, Paris. Phone 01-4040-0330.
Les Ambassadeurs—Located in the famed Hotel Crillon, a dinner at Les Ambassadeurs is as close as you'll get to experiencing a dinner at Versailles. The magnificent frescoes and marble halls of this former palace make it worth splurging for a meal. The food is superb, too—a perfect blend of traditional and contemporary cuisine. Open daily noon-2:30 pm and 7-10:30 pm. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 10 Place de la Concorde (8th), Paris. Phone 01-4471-1616.
Lucas Carton—A favorite pilgrimage for lovers of the Belle Epoque—superb cooking and a different wine with every course. Alain Senderens, one of today's leading chefs, prepares such specialities as scallop ravioli, warm house-smoked salmon and poached honey-roasted duck. Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm and 8-10:30 pm, Saturday 8-10:30 pm. Closed August and 24, 25, 31 December-5 January. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 9 Place de la Madeleine (8th), Paris. Phone 01-4265-2290. Fax 01-4266-062380.
Maceo—Named after James Brown's saxophone player Maceo Parker, this restaurant is new to the Palais Royale area. It's a comfortable spot, with a saloon bar and Louis XV chairs. Specialties include duckling with caramelized turnips and veal tongue. There's even an international wine menu—a Parisian rarity. Monday-Saturday noon-2:30 pm and 7-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Visa and MasterCard accepted. 15 Rue des Petits-Champs (1st), Paris. Phone 01-4297-5385. Fax 01-4703-3693.
Paul Minchelli—At this handsome seafood restaurant, the tables are big, the chairs comfortable and the dark yellow walls are practically undecorated. The same aesthetic applies to the food—everything is fresh, simple and marvelously unadorned. Tuesday-Saturday noon-2:30 pm and 7-10:30 pm. Closed August. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Visa and MasterCard only. Near Les Invalides at 54 Blvd. de la Tour Maubourg (7th), Paris. Phone 01-4705-8986.
Toupary—Recently opened in the Samaritaine department store, with splendid decor by American film designer Hilton McConnico (Diva) and a view that is out of this world. 11:45 am-3 pm, 7:30-11:30 pm. Tea is served from 3:30-6 pm. Closed Sundays. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Fifth floor of Shop Number 2 of La Samaritaine, 2 Quai du Louvre (1st), Metro Pont Neuf, Paris. Phone 01-4041-2929.
Violon d'Ingres—Chef Christian Constant's restaurant was named for an expression meaning a favorite pastime (and evokes the name of the 19th-century neoclassical painter). It has had enormous success with its inventive French cuisine and intimate charm. Open Tuesday-Saturday 12:30-2:30 pm and 7:30-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 135 Rue St. Dominique (7th), Paris. Phone 01-4555-1505. Fax 01-4555-4842.
Local and regional specialties
Arpege—Alain Passard has become the first three-star Michelin chef to announce in 2001 that all but one of his dishes will be vegetarian, fish or shellfish, following the discovery of several cases of mad cow disease in France. Dragee de pigeonneau (young pigeon or squab with sweetened almond) is the one remaining meat dish. Among the offerings are eggs in creme of black Perigord truffles, and flounder with lemongrass, onions and sweet white wine. Monday-Friday 12:30-1:45 pm and 8-10:30 pm. Reservations strongly suggested. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 84 Rue de Varenne (7th), Paris. Phone 01-4551-4733.
Chartier—A Paris institution where art nouveau meets New York hustle. White-apron-clad waiters serve up 1,000 meals a day in this turn-of-the-century dining hall. The food is average, but the atmosphere is a big draw. Be prepared to share tables. Open daily 11:30 am-3 pm and 6-10 pm. $$. Visa only. 7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre (9th), Paris. Phone 01-4770-8629.
La Coupole—This big, bustling art-deco restaurant was one of Hemingway's hangouts. The ambience is enhanced by walls and columns hand-painted by local artists. It is recently under new management and has been revamped and, sadly, is beginning to lose some of the old charm as well as old customers. But the old menu lives on, and the food is excellent. Try the cassoulet (white beans simmered in goose fat with goose, lamb and sausages) or the seafood (lobster in whiskey sauce, oysters, sea urchins, clams). Night owls can take advantage of the prix-fixe menu for just 121 F after 10 pm. Daily noon-2 am. Reservations not accepted. $$$. Most major credit cards. 102 Blvd. du Montparnasse (14th), Paris. Phone 01-4320-1420.
La Tour d'Argent—A sublime experience, this is a dining destination of le tout Paris and notables from around the world. The cooking is heavenly, the wine cellar is a wine-lover's dream, and the top-floor view of Notre Dame and the Seine is included in the (high) price. Famous for its different preparations of duckling and for sauteed scallops with sea urchin souffle. Tuesday-Sunday noon-1 pm and 7:30-9 pm (or whenever patrons complete their meals). Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 15-17 Quai de Tournelle (5th), Paris. Phone 01-4354-2331.
Le Balzar—A Left Bank landmark, one of Paris' oldest authentic brasseries. Cozy and intimate, a favorite of the literati. Jean-Paul Sartre used to go there with his grandmother for lemonade. The food is no-nonsense and good, the waiters ancient and brisk. Try the choucroute (sauerkraut with sausages or breaded pig's foot) or the raie au beurre fondu (ray in melted butter). Daily noon-12:30 am. Closed August. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards, excluding Diners Club. 49 Rue des Ecoles (5th), Paris. Phone 01-4354-1367.
Nos Ancetres les Gaulois—Jugs of wine, plates of saucisson (dried sausages) and long wooden tables, combined with late-17th-century decor, make this a pleasantly different dining experience. Daily 7 pm-midnight. Reservations recommended. $$. Accepts American Express and Diners Club only. 39 Rue St. Louis en Ile (4th), Paris. Phone 01-4633-8959.
Asian
Blue Elephant—The jungle decor in this wonderful Thai restaurant is worth the experience. Sitting among the tropical plants and trees, you can try the duck salad or an array of lamb or chicken curries. Daily noon-2:30 pm and 7 pm-midnight, Sundays till 9 pm. On Saturday, only open for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. 43 Rue de la Roquette (11th). Phone 01-4700-4200.
La Baie d'Ha Long—Vietnamese cuisine as interpreted by a Cordon Bleu chef. Try the royal stuffed crab, the ginger-grilled duck or the chicken in banana leaves. Monday-Saturday noon-2:30 pm and 7-10:30 pm. Closed August. Reservations necessary for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. 164 Ave. de Versailles (16th). Phone 01-4524-6062.
Breakfast and brunch
Joe Allen—Serves U.S.-style brunches on the weekends—pancakes, toast, eggs, bacon, sausage—along with steaks, sandwiches, fresh juices and American coffee. Brunch served Saturday and Sunday noon-4 pm. $$. American Express and Visa. 30 Pierre Lescot (1st). Phone 01-4236-7013.
La Verriere—A great place for power breakfasts, U.S. style. (The name means The Glass Roof.) At the Grand Inter-Continental Hotel. Buffet costs 165 F. Breakfast served daily 7:30-10:30 am. $$$. Most major credit cards. 2 Rue Scribe (9th). Phone 01-4007-3232.
Ritz Bar and Pool—A sumptuous surrounding for a brunch buffet full of cold salads, smoked salmon, meat and fresh seasonal produce as well as hot dishes, followed by cheese and dessert. Brunch is served 11 am-3 pm and costs 380 F. Major credit cards. 15 Place Vendome (1st). Phone 01-4316-3030.
Cafes and tearooms
Angelina—A fashionable teatime favorite in a Belle Epoque setting across from the Tuileries. Famous for its hot chocolate, which is so rich it's almost a meal in itself. Daily 9:30 am-7 pm. $$. American Express and Visa. 226 Rue de Rivoli (1st). Phone 01-4260-8200.
Cafe de Flore—No trip to Paris is complete without a visit to this existentialist mecca on the celebrated Boulevard Saint Germain. Once frequented by Sartre and company. The cafe remains true to its '30s decor, and the service harks back to the elegance of that time as well. Daily 7 am-2 am. $-$$. American Express. 172 Blvd. St. Germain (6th). Phone 01-4548-5526.
Cafe de la Mosquee de Paris—Opens a window on another important facet of contemporary French culture, the Muslim community. Enjoy sweet mint tea and flaky pastries laced with honey in an authentic Moorish-style cafe on the grounds of the Paris mosque. (The food is also brought into the antechamber of the Turkish-style bath attached to the mosque, so you can relax naked on a floor mat, sipping tea and munching sweets, after steaming your pores open.) Cafe open daily 9 am-midnight. $. Visa. 39 Rue Geoffroy St. Hillaire (5th). Phone 01-4331-1814.
Taverne Henri IV—The wine selection includes a wide array of Beaujolais, Sauternes and wines from the Loire Valley and is priced by the glass. Menu includes charcuterie, snails, open sandwiches, fine cheeses and foie gras. Monday-Friday 11 am-3:30 pm and 6:30-9:30 pm. $-$$. 13 Place du Pont Neuf (1st). Phone 01-4354-2790.
Dinner cruises
Several companies offer dinner cruises, with decor and ambience varying greatly. You can simply walk along the Seine in the morning or early afternoon and peer into the docked restaurants until you find one that appeals to you.
Bateaux Parisiens—Even jaded Parisians are seduced by the nightly parade of boats that cruise along the Seine. You can reserve a table through an established company such as Bateaux Parisiens, which offers a nightly cruise, including dinner, wine and musical entertainment. Board 30 minutes before the 8:30 pm departure. The cruise ends at 10 pm. Major credit cards accepted. Book a day in advance. For information and reservations, phone 01-44-11-3344.
Italian (including pizzerias)
Casa Bini—Located on a little side street in St. Germain, this restaurant's atmosphere is as fresh and inviting as its food—lots of carpaccio and crostini di mozzarella (slices of Italian bread topped with tomatoes or red peppers and mozzarella, then grilled). Great place for lunch. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for dinner only. Closed one week in August. Reservations accepted. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 36 Rue Gregoire de Tours (6th). Phone 01-4634-0560.
Il Baccello—This brand-new restaurant blends Italian and French flavors in innovative combinations, with a menu of mostly fish and vegetarian meals. Among the best dishes are the artichoke salad with lobster on a whole-wheat galette and the pear-almond tart. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 33 Rue Cardinet (17th). Phone 01-4380-6360.
Per Bacco—Authentic but light Italian cuisine from Mama's kitchen with daily changing menu. Some of the best dishes include ravioli with langoustines, swordfish, risotto with squid, and flan with buffalo milk. Monday-Saturday noon-2:30 pm and 8-10:30 pm. Closed August. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Major credit cards but not American Express. 10 Rue Lambert (18th). Phone 01-4252-2240.
Late night
Bofinger—After a night walk around the Bastille, this popular brasserie offers an elegant end to an evening. Bofinger opened in 1864 and is reputed to have served the first draught beer in Paris. The building, with its sweeping, winding staircase and graceful cupola, is a real Belle Epoque treat. Monday-Friday noon-3 pm and 6:30 pm-1 am; Saturday, Sunday and holidays noon-1 am. $$$. Most major credit cards. 5-7 Rue de la Bastille (4th). Phone 01-4272-8782.
Cafe Beaubourg—Artists, intellectuals and assorted poseurs hold court in this large, postmodern cafe overlooking the Centre Pompidou. Enjoy the terrace in good weather. Monday-Thursday and Sunday 8 am-1 am, Friday and Saturday till 2 am. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 100 Rue St. Martin (4th). Phone 01-4887-6396.
Middle Eastern
Chez Omar—Great Moroccan couscous and grilled meats in a lively, overcrowded atmosphere. Despite the fact that the waiters are always in a bad mood, it's a popular place and you'll have to wait in line to get in. Daily noon-3 pm and 7 pm-midnight. Reservations accepted. $$. No credit cards. 47 Rue de Bretagne (3rd). Phone 01-4272-3626.
Spanish
Casa Tina—Authentic Spanish tapas bar. Good sherry and jamon serrano. Daily noon-2:30 pm and 7-11:30 pm. $$. American Express and Visa. 18 Rue Lauriston (16th). Phone 01-4067-1924.
Additional experiences
Chez Bichi de la Goulette Belleville—Grandson Bichi runs this Paris counterpart of his grandfather's place on the waterfront in La Goulette, Tunis. Dishes include kemia—pickled cabbage, orange-flavored carrots, spicy sliced turnips—served with whole grilled fish and couscous. Daily 10 am-3 pm and 6:30 pm-midnight. $$. Most major credit cards. 88-90 Boulevard de Belleville (20th). Phone 01-4366-8986.
Chez Finkelsteyn—Best Jewish delicatessen and patisserie in Paris. Poppy-seed bread and cakes, apple strudel, Albanian cheese, onion bread. Go there just for the mouthwatering display and the welcome. Wednesday-Sunday 10 am-7 pm, Monday 11 am-7 pm. $$-$$$. No credit cards accepted. Closed August. 27 Rue des Rosiers and 24 Rue des Ecouffes (4th). Metro Saint-Paul. Phone 01-4272-7891 or 01-4887-9285.
La Ferme Saint Hubert—Gen. Charles de Gaulle once asked, "How can one govern a country with more than 300 different varieties of cheese?" You can sample some of the very best at this charming fromagerie which specializes in fondue, Roquefort tastes and, of course, wines to enhance the flavor. Monday-Thursday noon-3 pm and 7-11 pm, Friday and Saturday till 11:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 21 Rue Vignon (8th). Phone 01-4742-7920.
